We made it, three days in Ghana and it's almost time to move on. Things are going to pass quickly during this trip... Tonight we catch a flight to Bamako (via 3 other countries, including Guinea and Sierra Leone). We were told before we left that West Africa would surprise us, it would be quite different than Morocco. And it is. On the plus side, you can stop and get a beer anywhere you want; a far cry from the equivalent presence of mint tea weighed down with sugar that we're used to. On the other hand, the old city of Fez is basically car free, the exact opposite of traffic-ridden Accra.
Other than the 2-plus hours per day that I've spent in transit, I've found generous people eager to share their stories and music with me, a passing stranger. A few people are excited to be in touch once we return to Ghana at the end of August, ready to sit down and discuss the changes of Ghanaian music since the '40s. Hip life, a combination of hip hop and highlife, plays from car stereos and music stalls on the street. Even more omnipresent, however, are old Protestant hymns performed as groovy reggae tunes. While speaking with Sunny, a Nigerian country music fan who sells CDs by the Makola Market, his stereo began blaring "Sweet By and By," a tune I've fiddled my way through a number of times over the past year. (I quickly bought the CD and look forward to adding it to a lecture upon my return!).
Last night Annie was finally able to get out of our neo-colonial hotel. We went down to a bar in Osu, an area just outside of downtown Accra, where we found some live music. Bywel's, one of the few places still hosting bands during the week, reminded me of a roof-less Bug Jar (for the Rochestarians) or Common Grounds (for the Gainesvillians). It was a hip spot with murals painted on the walls, and the lack of shelter allowed the fresh air in and the must out. The Alpha Waves began with old ballads including "Georgia on my Mind" and "What a Wonderful World" before shifting into a good highlife/hip life groove. The place was hopping by 10:00, we stuck around for a while, talking to a rice exporter from California. Our taxi driver said he'd find us a band to hear tonight and left his number. I'll call later - we'll see if he comes through.
Tonight we leave, and finally get to Mali, a trip we've been craving for years. But first, we intent to enjoy every last minute here in Accra, and today we do a bit of shopping. I just got a soccer jersey for $10, I had to haggle a little extra since they knocked us out of the World Cup not that long ago. Tonight's goal is kente cloth, a handmade fabric from the region. Wish us luck, and good prices!
Peace
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